Understanding Men’s Shoes

By the time you arrived at this article you should by know understood the term that come out when I’m speaking about shoes, oxford, blucher, loafer, derby, monk strapped, cap toe, etc. But even if you don’t, don’t be afraid, millions out there are just as clueless about any of this terms when speaking about shoes.

Fortunately, men’s shoes are not as complicated as women’s. To give you simple illustration, man shoes are just like men’s emotion, can be easily compartmented, and not many derivation in between. Even in more than a century stretch time, the definition of men shoes hasn’t changed much.

The same thing can’t be said about women’s. Like her owner, women’s shoes are complicated and difficult to understand, it’s rich in variation, and even small ornamented decoration, can significantly alter the impression of the shoes from good to bad in an instant. Much more to be said about the derivation, which is the only reason why men’s are dropped dead when asked about women’s shoes.

Stop snobbing about woman, let’s take a look the type of man shoes defined by its constructions

Oxford

Loake Black Cap Toe Oxford (source: www.herringshoes.co.uk)
Loake Black Cap Toe Oxford (source: www.herringshoes.co.uk)

Oxford, which termed one of the most formal shoes existent, is a term used for a shoe with closed laced meaning the lace flaps are stitched in the bottom, hence creating a lean and tight impression of the shoes. Oxford is your standard business shoes, conservative enough to wear to the office at any given day, or even to the less formal party (those that does not required black tie). There variations that usual comes with the oxford, notably on the toe area which will discussed latter on.

Blucher
Blucher or Derby, is an open laced shoes. Meaning that the lace flaps are not conjoined at the bottom, as such that it only connected by the lace it self. The term Blucher it self comes from the German General Blucher during Napoleonic war, who demand such shoe construction for its solders at a matter of practicality.

Blucher, is considered as a less formal kind of shoes compared to oxford, nonetheless in this modern day, it is considered to be acceptable to wear blucher to the office and even to the party. In my opinion blucher offers in between solution between formal and casual boundaries.  Like oxford, it comes in multitude variants, defined by patterned observable in toe

Loake Brown Cap Toe Blucher (source: www.herringshoes.co.uk)
Loake Brown Cap Toe Blucher (source: www.herringshoes.co.uk)
Monk Strapped

Monk strap is defined by the visible leather strapped with metal buckle that crossed the shoes and replaced the function of the lace. The strap can be functional or not, single, double or in a rare case triple. But regardless, it offers a lesser degree of formality compared the Oxford or Blucher, and I’d like to think to think that lesser strap commands more formality. Like the two, monk strapped model can varies defined by the pattern observable in the toe.

Loafer
Loafer, is the least casual of the shoes. It is defined by visible stitches that in lining the toe are, resembling a moccasin, hence the term moc toe. Loafer is great for dress down, and while these days it is acceptable to wear a loafer with suit, it is still deemed as inappropriate for many of the sartorial observer.

Church Brown Wingtip Monkstrap (source: www.herringshoes.co.uk)
Church Brown Wingtip Monkstrap (source: www.herringshoes.co.uk)

Now, remember that I said shoes is defined by the observable patterned in the toe area ? These are the pattern:

Plain toe, you guess it, it comes without pattern whatsoever, in can means a whole cut (the whole shoes made from a single sheet of skin, and the only stitched are those conjoined the upper layer with the bottom soles). Plain to is deemed to be the most formal of all, and those made of patent leather, is still the standard demand for a black tie occasions.

Cap Toe, cap toe defined by a horizontal line separating your toes and the rest of your feet. It can be a simple single or double stitches, or can be brogues (those with patterned holes). This is the ultimate standard business shoes. It can be matched with any suits, and can never go wrong for any business occasions. If criticality demand, you can even wear them to wedding, funeral and parties where black tie is not required. The cap is there for a reason, you will notice, that the cap usual falls in area where your shoes bend for your walk, hence the stretch mark is not too visible.

Church Brown Penny Loafer
Church Brown Penny Loafer (source: www.herringshoes.co.uk)

Wing tip, defined by a wing like shape that starts from the inner side of the shoes, formed a “w” like shape on the toes area, and ended on the outer side of the shoes. These patterned can either be single/double stitches, brogue or full brogue, which usually denoted of a small pattern on the capped area. Wing tip is the least formal of all, it is initially designed as a country side shoes, one that would wear for casual strolling in British country side. Works very well for a summer suit, and less casual patterned (checked or tweed). These days, wing tip is an acceptable option to be wear to the office, as it comes with laced (closed or open a like) it is still more formal that loafer or moc toe, which many men chooses these days.

Everbest black moc toe derby
Everbest black moc toe derby

Moc toe, defined by a loafer like stitched in line the shoes. These are one of the most hits model available in the market today. It is usually observable in some type of derby and slips on, but never on oxford.

Now I would love to list down, in order of importance the type of combination above, but instead I will write a single piece outlining the my preferred choice. Do I miss anything ? Feel free to add on in the comments sections.

8 Responses to “Understanding Men’s Shoes”

Leave a Reply

Follow me on
A Note for Maker
Naturally, I am in continuous search of quality products. So if you are a tailor, cordwainer (shoemaker), tailor, or merchants who offer fashion related products and thinks that your work has quality that will impress me, please let me know by email me at rihan@simplenotch.com. I would love to know more about your work.

Switch to our mobile site