Tailor vs. Off the Rack Suit – Case One: College Graduate
One of the frequent advice that I gave to my fellow in terms of suit acquisition was when you can afford it get it tailored. Now comes to think of it may not always a sensible advice when it comes to those who lives in Jakarta or Indonesia in general, because tailored suit not necessarily more expensive then of the rack suit and not necessarily better. In that sense, there is no easy answer, and at the end it lies on your budget, your situation, preference and how sophisticated you are in terms of your sartorial decency. Lets examine our option.
Say if you are a college graduate, you need suit because you are going to apply job, head to interview and of course make an impression on whoever wants to hire you. There will be time range of 2-3 month between your graduation and interviews, and since you don’t have your own income, the good bet is that your budget will be limited too say between IDR1-1.5mio for a suit. Take all this into account, and here what I thought.
With IDR1.5mio you can get a decent quality material tailored suit. But as I have mentioned in many of my earlier posts, having a suit is all bout having a fit. And finding a tailor with that budget range and suits you is a challenge. Additionally, since this is your first suit, I sincerely doubt that you know what you want and what to expect. Hence plenty opportunity for things to go wrong.
Your old man, naturally should come into rescue, with his age and experience, he should by now ready to guide you to enter the period of sartorial adulthood. And by that recommended 1-2 two tailors that he has been using all this time. This is great, since then you can avoided trial and error, and you have to trust your old man judgment. His tailor of choice may not be readily suitable to your taste, but good thing about tailor made suit, that if its not satisfactory at the first fit, you can ask for an adjustment. And three months is quite plenty of time to do so. As long as your the tailor willing to listen, and you are willing to contribute. And if this is your case, its pretty much settled for the time being.
Unfortunately not everyone that lucky, in fact most of our old man probably have little or no conscience of the sartorial decency. In which case, you should look at the ready, off the rack suit.
There are plenty of brand within that budget range that you can choose. My primary choice will be Zara and G2000. Some other brands like Carthago and Arnon Brook can also be found in your average Department Store (Sogo, Metro and Centro) and they offer various cut and materials. I urge you try window shop and try every possibilities, you’ll surprise on the difference that each brand can offer in terms of fit and materials.
With this “budget” brand of course, you don’t have much say in the quality. These suits are machine made, and the materials are average, in-depth bespoke details like working cuff buttons, stitched canvas, and hand stitched inter lining us out of questions. That said, with proper care, the suit may last for years before it ruined itself from weather and usage.
Hence when buying this suit, only consider three things. The first the type of suit that will flatter your figure (two-button or three-button, side vented or centre vented), the material (make sure that its comfortable for you to wear it for a full day, and doesn’t make you itch) and lastly the fit (make sure than you can move, stand and sit comfortably in it.
Now you have to trust me on these thing, as much as you think the suit fits you well, it is not, unless you have a body like a pro model or a mannequin, there is going some room for improvement, maybe on the sleeve lengths or waist fit. To that affect, bring it to any decent tailor that you can find, and have it adjusted, it will cost you few hundred thousands extra, but its worth it. It’s also a good way for you to find your own future tailor.




Never thought I’ll find a single soul in Jakarta whom understand the basic knowledge about “suit”.
In my opinion (and experience with my fashion-ignorant-hubby), the made-to-measure suit which made by average tailor still better than off-the-rack suit.
Suggestion from old lady :
- Shop material from a decent textile shop (I prefer to shop at Mayestik than Pasar Baru, less confusing). For all-purpose-color, charcoal is the best. Solid black could look cheap and shiny (we don’t want to look like transjakarta driver for sure). Pure wool is the best (price range from IDR 900,000-2,000,000/m). If you have a budget to mind, try semi wool.
- Find a great tailor (the hardest part). Personally, I recommended Kwong Tung and A Tham. Their pattern would flatter most of Indonesian gentlemen and their fee still reasonable. I’ve found a good and decent tailor at Tebet, Tunggal Jaya. Their workmanship is quite good.
- Order a classic suit, 2 buttons suit is great, 3 buttons if you want to look like Hugo Boss ad (believe me, you also need THAT figure).
- Buy 2 – 3 great Italian cotton shirts (Raoul and Van Laack to name of few).
- Buy 7 average cotton shirt (polyester won’t do any good for you).
- If really want to splurge, buy a woven silk tie from a high end brand, i.e.Zegna,Lanvin etc. But Metro and Sogo collection also offer good quality.
Those stuff would cost you at least IDR 7,000,000 but you’ll look fabulous for 2-3 years.
@amasvaritas
And I never thought that someone with your experience and knowledge will stumble upon my humble blog.
Thank you for sharing and the very excellent suggestions. I’m in agreement with most of your points, and as a matter of fact, some of your point will be discussed in the next post on this serie.
Your recomendation of Tunggal Jaya Tebet is very interesting, can you precisely tell me where the shop is located ? I’m now living in Casablanca, and my usual tailor are no longer conveniently accessible, so I’m looking for closer one. Might one to try by commission one or two dress shirt, and see how it progress from there.
Please keep coming fo more interesting post ahead
Well, I’m an old lady, remember. It’s great and refreshing to meet a nice young fellow whom has good understanding to dress as a real and proper gentlemen.
Your strong side is simplicity. Your knowledge about some basic brands is quite good (It’s rare for someone as young as you buy Mario Minardi, except they understand about shoes quality) .
Well, simplicity doesn’t mean poor (allow me to quote Coco Chanel).
I think Tunggal Jaya could create quite decent measure-to-made suit and dress shirt and of course batik (I don’t have any experience with bespoke shirt).
They could handle a fragile Tenun Baron and create a beautiful national dress shirt for my hubby.
Tunggal Jaya :
Jl. Tebet Timur Dalam No. 73 (depan Pasar PSPT Tebet Timur)
Ph : 021-8297984
Good luck !!
P.S.
Do you mind to give me suggestion where I could make a canvassed suit (not a fused suit) except of Laxmi Tailor. It’s very hard to find a tailor here which could create a canvassed suit. TIA
i think the secret to any great suit or dress for both men and women relies on the material and the taylor’s hands. brand isnt important. as long as the material and cutting suits your body, you’ll look like a million bucks .
thanks for the comment you wrote on my blog .
keep posting more inspirations !
HOPE YOU’VE HAD AN AWESOME WEEKEND!
much love from .
glisters and blisters
@amasvaritas, I thought your terming of “old lady” more like figuratively rather than literally. In anycase, I heard Brutus also offers canvassed suit (if asked), as well as Lord’s. But I have experience in neither of them, so I can’t attest their workmanship.
If you have an opportunity to visit HK, Edward Tam of Regal Kowloon Hotel is highly recomended, and its surprisingly significantly cheaper than the likes of Laxmi or Brutus. Hope that helps.
@Michelle,
I coulnt agree more. Materials and the cut is definitely two utter most important factors of any dresses. That said, brand provided some standardization to the these variables, in which we are aware of what sort quality to expects.
Nonethelss I do loathe people who pick brand, simply because of their understanding on the luxury value instead of quality.
Interesting site. My family and I were just discussing this the other evening. Also your webpage looks great on my old laptop. And thats rare. Nice work.
I don’t usually reply to posts but I will in this case, great info…I will add a backlink and bookmark your site. Keep up the good work!
-Robert Shumake Paul Nicoletti
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just looking around the web and found this website.
and i’m totally in awe reading the article and the replies.
i’m running a suit business in jakarta, tailor by appointment.
it’s really important for college graduate to understand first
about what is suit for them and having fun with the trial and error mode
finding the perfect fit for them and accepting what they look like.
if interested can reach me at see@brillingtonandbrothers.com