Posts Tagged ‘indonesia’

Introduction to Shopaholic

The terminology of Shopaholic doesn’t seem to apply to most men, and so I will understand your surprise in finding the word “shopaholic” on the title above.

But afraid not, I’m not about to start rumbling about psychological analysis on men spending nature, but instead introduce to you to an online shop and a newly setup blog that run and managed by my dear friend Mira and Cynthia.

It would be a classic for me to introduce the girls’ blog and shop by telling you the story and the nitty gritty  behind their venture, but of course I won’t give you the satisfaction of proving you right (since you can read about it anyway on their “about” section), nor that I would make you happy by pretending that I know things about women’s fashion.

So what I would recommend you to do is simply visit their blog (www.shopaholicjakarta.com) and their online store (www.shopaholic.us.com) and find your self what they have to offer. Enjoy and happy shopping !!!

p.s. Girls, you’ll be better judge than I do. Boys, you can make your girls significantly happier by acquiring some of the items on their shop :)

My First Made to Order Shoes – Part 2

Just a very quick update on my MTO (made to order) shoes (you can read previous post in this series here).

It almost a month since I’ve got my feet measured for pattern. Just last Thursday, I was invited to the fitting. Handiman the owner of Mario Minardi has finished making a rough finished left side of the pair for me to try.  And whilst it was nice to wear, I felt there is something off with the shape and curve of the shoes, and so I request some adjustment.

Anyway, along the way, in between the measurements and fitting. Handiman sent me a couple of pictures that some sort of explain the early stage of the production process.

The first picture below is the original last. You see, after my precise measurement was obtained, Handiman then look for a last ( a shoe frame, very much resembling shoe tree) that closest resembling my feet shape. The results is last number 11292 as you see below. If you look closer you can see the last size is 42, which is consistent my current wear size.

The original shoes last. Number 11292 size 42

The original shoes last. Number 11292 size 42

However, as one may predicted, the last required some amendment, hence Handiman send the last to be adjusted as observed on the below picture. The adjustment shown in dark gray materials appears to increase the height of the upper part. This adjustment was done for both side accordingly.

Adjusted shoe last, notice the black material attached to the original last ?

Adjusted shoe last, notice the black material attached to the original last ?

Next process is making the pattern. This is shown by drawing the shoe pattern across the last on the above picture. The drawing will then be used as a guidance when cutting the leather material.

The pattern drawn on the last

The pattern drawn on the last

From this point, the process will decidedly be varied and becoming more and more complex. It will be interesting process nonetheless, and I will report the detail process accordingly when I received by shoes safe and sound. Until then, I bid you good night and good luck.

Tailor vs. Off the Rack Suit – Case One: College Graduate

One of the frequent advice that I gave to my fellow in terms of suit acquisition was when you can afford it get it tailored. Now comes to think of it may not always a sensible advice when it comes to those who lives in Jakarta or Indonesia in general, because tailored suit not necessarily more expensive then of the rack suit and not necessarily better. In that sense, there is no easy answer, and at the end it lies on your budget, your situation, preference and how sophisticated you are in terms of your sartorial decency. Lets examine our option.

Say if you are a college graduate, you need suit because you are going to apply job, head to interview and of course make an impression on whoever wants to hire you. There will be time range of 2-3 month between your graduation and interviews, and since you don’t have your own income, the good bet is that your budget will be limited too say between IDR1-1.5mio for a suit. Take all this into account, and here what I thought.

With IDR1.5mio you can get a decent quality material tailored suit. But as I have mentioned in many of my earlier posts, having a suit is all bout having a fit. And finding a tailor with that budget range and suits you is a challenge. Additionally, since this is your first suit, I sincerely doubt that you know what you want and what to expect. Hence plenty opportunity for things to go wrong.

Your old man, naturally should come into rescue, with his age and experience, he should by now ready to guide you to enter the period of sartorial adulthood. And by that recommended 1-2 two tailors that he has been using all this time. This is great, since then you can avoided trial and error, and you have to trust your old man judgment. His tailor of choice may not be readily suitable to your taste, but good thing about tailor made suit, that  if its not satisfactory at the first fit, you can ask for an adjustment. And three months is quite plenty of time to do so. As long as your the tailor willing to listen, and you are willing to contribute. And if this is your case, its pretty much settled for the time being.

Unfortunately not everyone that lucky, in fact most of our old man probably have little or no conscience of the sartorial decency. In which case, you should look at the ready, off the rack suit.

There are plenty of brand within that budget range that you can choose. My primary choice will be Zara and G2000. Some other brands like Carthago and Arnon Brook can also be found in your average Department Store (Sogo, Metro and Centro) and they offer various cut and materials.  I urge you try window shop and try every possibilities, you’ll surprise on the difference that each brand can offer in terms of fit and materials.

With this “budget” brand of course, you don’t have much say in the quality. These suits are machine made, and the materials are average,  in-depth bespoke details like working cuff buttons, stitched canvas, and hand stitched inter lining us out of questions. That said, with proper care, the suit may last for years before it ruined itself from weather and usage.

Hence when buying this suit, only consider three things. The first the type of suit that will flatter your figure (two-button or three-button, side  vented or centre vented), the material (make sure that its comfortable for you to wear it for a full day, and doesn’t make you itch) and lastly the fit (make sure than you can move, stand and sit comfortably in it.

Now you have to trust me on these thing, as much as you think the suit fits you well, it is not, unless you have a body like a pro model or a mannequin, there is going some room for improvement, maybe on the sleeve lengths or waist fit.  To that affect, bring it to any decent tailor that you can find, and have it adjusted, it will cost you few hundred thousands extra, but its worth it. It’s also a good way for you to find your own future tailor.

First Visit to Mario Minardi

When I arrived from the office about an hour ago, I was physically exhausted and worn out. Normally, in a Monday like this, I will spend the rest of the night by sitting on my beloved couch watching the DVDs that I just bought last weekend, whilst being accompanied by ice cold soda and a bag of chips, and just shut my self off the world and its problem.

But no, not tonight.  Tonight I have news too important to be hold and joy too important not to be shared.

Remember in my previous post that I found that Mario Minardi is made in Indonesia, and that I found an email address that I decided to contact ? Well, they replied, a gentleman comes by the name of Handiman Ali extended his invitation to visit his workshop, which is not far from my workplace. An invitation I’m gladly accepted and happily executed today.

Entering the gate of his workshop, I was received by a young gentleman, which happens to be Handiman Ali himself (he preferred to be called Handiman). He brought me to his meeting room where further conversation ensued.

We quickly started the discussions from historical perspective, Handiman quickly guide me on brief history of his company, much of it can be found on the company website (don’t get put off by the website design, in my pinion the website has not done justice of capturing the whole soul and full potential of the brand).

What quickly captured my respect for him  was his passion for shoes and dreams for his company, and to his credit he listens too.

Being a huge fans of the brand ever since I owned my first one (now I have two, and so is my Dad, and my younger brother), I quickly expressed my concern on how the design of the shoes has been dramatically change in the last few years, some for the good some for the bad. I also raised the issue  on how I found it difficult to find a red line that connects Mario Minardi’s line up from different seasons, and the difficulties that I encounter when I’m trying to find a refresh of the Mario Minardi classic product such as the simple smart black loafer.  It also annoys me , I told him, when I realized that it’s really difficult to find simple classic man shoes such as oxford, derby, monk strap in Indonesia, and that I have to go to Singapore to get one for my dad, or spend fortune to get it at more established brand like Zegna, Boss or Salvatore Ferragamo.

I also showed him my beloved J. Holbens semi brogue brown wing tip, which I acquired some months a go from Linea Plaza Senayan.  Like an expert he is ( he’s been working in the factory since 1998) he studied the shoes with care and attention.

To that, I further highlighted that knowing Mario Minardi’s quality, experience wise, I have no slightest doubt that Mario Minardi should have no problem producing one of the classic shoes. To this comment he grinned and barged me with his idea and plan (which in my opinion, deserves an entirely new post)for the future of his company. He also managed to impress me when he listed out some of the famous shoe brands (you will never guess) that outsourced the production to his workshop.

When I enquired about the possibility of enhancing the brand by opening a showroom and offering made to order shoes, he smiled and commented that he observing that possibility and has not ruled out the idea. To this remarks I smiled in return and offering him to commission my first bespoke shoes, to which he agreed.

Mario Minardi asembly line where shoes assembled with care and attention

Mario Minardi asembly line where shoes assembled with care and attention

When I first emailed him, I expressed my interest on having a tour on his workshop and witness the artisans in actions. Unfortunately, I came at a wrong time today, and the workshop was practically empty when I get my tour. It was during this plant tour that he showed me a beautiful, an absolute gorgeous, Goodyear welted – full brogue black wingtip oxford. Looking briefly on the shape, stitches and leather texture, it could be easily compared with the like such as Ferragamo, Church’s or Loake.

An adorable brogue black wing tip

An adorable brogue black wing tip

He was also kind enough to introduce me to Marco, one of the company’s lead designer who oversee the product design and development.

To summarize the whole experience and knowledge that was acquired today in this short article would be very difficult. To say that I’m happy, and feels the joy, and all sort of euphoria, of finding and knowing that my favorite shoe maker, is actually Indonesian and in very short distance from where I live, is an understatement. And to knowing and imagine the future and possibilities that lies ahead this bright and prospectus company is priceless.

Now reality hits. Admittedly I  might be a little bit biased when talking about Mario Minardi, knowing fully that I’m an unashamed fans of the brand. But hey, as my blog tag proudly announced, this is an opinionated blogazine, meaning I am entitled to have my own opinion and is not required to be fair at any given time. But make no mistake, in weeks to come,  as soon as my feet measured and until my first bespoke shoes finally delivered  and my feet slips in it, I’ll be the fairest, harshest and toughest judge ever. Mark my words.

Mario Minardi is Made in Indonesia !!!

Remember when I said “Mario Minardi is traditional Italian brand…” in my earlier post some week ago ? Well dear readers, I was dead wrong.

Just found out this morning, that Mario Minardi is actually an Indonesian brand. Build, designed and manufactured in Indonesia. Not only that this is shocking but this is also a very good news. It’s good because, previously I’m very reluctant to admit that Indonesian made shoes (that is gentlemen shoes) are of good breeding and quality.

Admittedly my experience with known local branded shoes had always been disappointing. So far, off all local brand that I tried, only Mario Minardi, that in contrary has always delivered the quality that every men shoes should have.

Now, I would love to talk more about this shoes, but true to Indonesian company’s character, too few information about this shoe can be obtained in the internet. Luckily, I found an email address of the company, I’ll try to email them, and see how this could go forward ( a local bespoke shoes already crossed my mind), wish me luck.

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A Note for Maker
Naturally, I am in continuous search of quality products. So if you are a tailor, cordwainer (shoemaker), tailor, or merchants who offer fashion related products and thinks that your work has quality that will impress me, please let me know by email me at rihan@simplenotch.com. I would love to know more about your work.

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