Posts Tagged ‘suit’

Now that I have provided you with a reference of a good tailor, its now come to your discretion on what sort of details that you want to have when you come to the tailor and have your suit made. Generally, I will strongly advise you to visit dept store and designers boutique to see and feel what your preference going to be. The cut, the materials, the label, the lapel width, lapel type, pockets, buttons and every details that comes with the suit.

Usually, the tailor will have to ask you some obvious, such as the fabric choice,  suit type (single breasted, double breasted) some will go as far to ask what sort of buttons that you want (for some reasons, many Indonesian high end tailor, like to offer customer with fancy metal, emblem buttons, and for some reasons, many customers opted that rather then conventional mother of pearl).

But other than that beware, the suit that you would  get may not exactly what you have imagined. Hence, the list:

• Lapel, the choice can be peak or notched. For ordinary business requirement, choose peak lapel
• Lapel wide, in Asia (including Indonesia) the tendency for the tailor is to use wide lapel.  If you like prefer narrower one, like I do, ask him to do so
• Sleeve buttons,  four buttons only
• Vent, this is the tail of your suit, side vents for English style, single vents for American, no vents for Italian. My preference ? side vents, it helps you when you sit, and leaves the suit form intact.
• Number of buttons, two or three, but never four, and used one only for tux
• Shoulder Pad, generally it depends on your figure, if your shoulder sloppy you could as for full pad, but if your should big enough, ask for less pad, this will help accentuate your figure rather naturally
• Sleeve length, tell him that you want the suit shorter than the shirt sleeve, as such when you standing, and both of your arms on the side, 1 cm of your shirt sleeve will leaved exposed
• Same things goes with your shirt collar
• The trousers, can be pleated or not. If you on average build, you can opt for non pleated, it enhanced the slim posture
• Trouser can be cuffed or not. In general choose no cuff.
• Belt loop. Some opted for looples waist, hence enhancing the clean and slim line of the trouser. Surely you can gain or loose weight in a time, in which case you can add side adjuster instead.
• Breast pocket. In my experience, due to tendency to make a relatively wide lapel, it sometimes resulting the lapel covering the breast pocket. I prefer the line of breast pocket is visible and slightly touched on the corner by a lapel, but again, you may need to ask for it.
• If you have a picture of your wanna be suit, show it and leave it, it’s good that your tailor have other reference other than his note.

When its finally ready for first fitting, wear a shirt that you normally wear with your sit, buttoned the upper most button (if two-button) or two upper most (if three-button) of your suit jacker and examine the following details:

• Sleeve length should felt 1 cm shorter that your shirt sleeve
• Your lapel should felt 1 cm shorter that your collar
• Your trousers behind should felt straight above your shoe heel, while the front part will wrinkled slightly covering your shoe lace.
• Ensure that the lapel falls flat on your chest, and the back side felt close with the shirt collar with no gap in between
• The jacket waist drape nicely around your own, and minimum stretch
• Your shoulder doesn’t bulge
• When you move you arms within reasonable range the remainging of the jackets will stays.
• The jacket length should be suffice to cover your arse, but no to long.
• Ensure that other details follow your original requirement
• Finally, take some moment, to try walk, sit and stand still. In any of these body position, you should feel the utmost convenient. After all what is the purpose of the tailor made clothes if it’s not comfy.

If you think I missed anything on this list, feel free to add.

Yesterday was my birthday.  And like any of my previous birthdays, it was full with greetings and wishes from my beloved family, dear friends and colleagues.

Like any other birthday, it was also full of festive occasions, lunch out with team mates, and dinner with best friends. There were also some surprises from my girlfriend and friends along the day.

But what surprise me the most, are the gifts that I received yesterday.

It’s all started by one phone call in late morning, right at the peak moment at the end of the year drowsiness. The voice on the call introduced her self as an admin from Ace Hardware, enquiring whether I’ll be home to receive the delivery. Pretty much clueless, on what was happening I asked, what delivery that she talked about. She explained that she has in her possession an oven toaster and a gift wrap, to which I responded, “I’m not ordering something from Ace, could there be some mistakes ?”

“No sir,” she said,” this is exactly delivery for you, as ordered by…” and behold, my girl friend act with her usual wit, has bought me, a dream machine that will superbly complement my apartment, an oven toaster. Needless  to explain, those of you who familiar with kitchen and cooking, will know how an oven can make your life easier and healthier, imagine of cooking French fries without oil ? Just spread it evenly on the pan, and toast it !!! It will be ready in 10mins.

Now the next gift, would have rather long story.

As many of my friends already know, and complains to me about it, I am one of those person who resent Blackberry,  don’t even start to ask why ? Because then you will incite a thesis long explanation on why I resent BB. Anyway, because of this resentment, and knowing that all my friends have been complaining in many occasion on my attitude towards BB, I have no doubt that, they will buy me one for my birthday (knowing for sure that there is no chance I will buy it myself).

So when they handled a box, reasonably heavy and beautifully wrap, I kind of said to my self, this is it, my penultimate end of blackberry resentment, because, no matter how I hate the stuff, there is no way, not even a single way, that I will disrespect a gift that my dearest friends have given me. And whilst slowly dismantled the wrappings, layer by layer, I imagined how my days going to be with a BB in my pocket, texting, and browsing, without the slightest care with the real worlds that surrounds you. Slowly, but surely, at those minutes, I fell into state of acceptance, that I will join the club of virtual autism, that have walked the earth for the last one year.

Alas, I could never been more wrong then that. As the box opened, and the plastic unwrapped, I carefully laid my hand on the soft, beautiful, smooth black colored fabric, a super 150 wool suit, that so soft, it felt almost like a silk. A fabric so perfect and so proper to be turned into a black suit or dinner jacket that I have in mind for my beloved cousin wedding next April.

I couldn’t help by wonder, at that time, out of everything in this world that could be turned and wrapped as a gift, my friends have pick for me a beautiful clothes that I can turn into a suit, almost like knowing for sure that I would deeply, deeply, appreciate and love it. And they were right. This piece of clothes, are the best gift I have ever received from them. It was very thoughtful, considerate and sincere, that I couldn’t wish for better gifts that night.

They could be selfish. I mean if my prophecy turned out to be correct, and they did get me a BB for my present, I will still be happy and they will be happy too, because then they can have me in their BBM anytime. But such selfishness is non existence in our friendship, as they have proved. Instead they gave me, something that I have never thought, never expected, never asked, and yet I very much valued, appreciated, loved and cared for. Fair to say, it was one of the best gift from the best of friends ever.

This makes me think, maybe, just maybe, if I have to swallow my own spit and get my self a BB like they wants me to do for almost a year now, it will be for the most right and unselfish reason.

In my entire adult life, I have mostly acquired suits off the rack on the department store. My latest off the rack acquisition was two years a go, a black 2-button suits of doubtful fabric by the brand named Carthago. It’s ok, it’s not bad, but far from impressive, I am remotely satisfied, but that was what my money can buy, or at least so I thought. It wasn’t until long that one of my best friend got married, and she entrusted a beautiful batik materials in two tone, to be made a shirt.

Having no experience on custom made shirt, I put my confidence in the only tailor I am familiar with, not because of its workmanship, but because of his proximity (I regularly passed through his workshop everytime I go to work). As it happens to be, he is pretty established tailor in the district, he claimed to have tailored for a like such as city mayor, and district head. Quick observation on his suit sample, I found that it is of the decent quality. So without further due, I entrust my batik material in his hands. Some thorough measurement, and quick question on how I want the batik fits me, and two weeks later, its finished, and I’m amazed by the fit, and how beautifully the batik fits on my body. It cost me IDR200k for the tailor, money well spend.

Having satisfied with these, I came back to him again to have a gray suit commissioned. Now I have to admit, Pak Haji, as the old guy is fondly called is probably not one of those top of the notch tailor you’ll find in hotels or fancy malls. His fabrics are decent but not excellent, and his approach on tailor made service may not be comparable with those of Saville Row, but I tell you what he is, his price is affordable, he takes personal approach on each of his customers, and he gives good if not stubborn advice.

By no means I am an easy customer, so after the first thorough measurements, I return twice for refit and adjustments, and it took more than 1 month for my first suit to complete. But all in all, I am a happy customer. The fit was perfect, the material is very comfy and it compliments my figure.

Pak Haji is fairly flexible, unlike those snobbish tailor who usually insist on certain thing, he listened to my requirement, before he make comments on what he thinks about it. Whether he agree or disagree, you still can enforced your will, and he will delivers.

Having said that, his work can not be compared with the upper end tailor. His suit canvas is glued, not stitched and this alone attest that his work can not and must not be categorized in bespoke class, despite the fact that it is made from scratch and to your specific measurement.

A set of suit is offered at starter price of IDR900k (wool blend), a wool suit is started at IDR1.5mio up to IDR2.75mio. A shirt is offered at IDR250k for plain or IDR300k (stripped). You can also bring your own fabrics.

After two suits, an odd jacket, two trousers, a batik, and a dress shirts, do I still need to explain how satisfied I am ?

Paris Tailor can be contacted at 021-8619411

One thing that particularly captured my eye when watching this movie, other than the pretty girls and beautiful 60′s settings was the choice of suits that was wore by Bill Nighy.  They were mostly checked suits, combined with floral patterned shirts, either tie or scarf are used as a neck accessories, alternately, never at the same time, but always, always, always complemented with pocket square.

Now admittedly, there is small to nil chance that I will ever wear such combination. But I have to admit, that when I see the good old Bill wore it, it was pleasant to watch. It helps that he is Bil Nighy, I mean with his lean build and odd persona on silver screen, you kind of de facto accept it, that there is no outfit is too ridiculous for him to wear.

Anyway, I take some time to get screen shot from the DVD. Enjoy and comments are appreciated as always.

Bill Night in The Boat that Rocked, with gray checked suit, midnight blue shirts, and khaki/brown pocket fountain square

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, and you think dark suit and dark shirt don't match up ?

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, pin stripe navy blue double breasted, blue floral patterned shirt and silk purple tie

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, look at the fabolous scarf ? Michelle I really wish you give that scarf to me

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, very interesting lapel. Never seen like it these days.

Bill Nighy in The Boat that Rocked, my favorite suit, shirt and tie combination in the movie.

Three years ago, my wardrobe wasn’t even half of my wardrobe size today. As my work life progress so is my wardrobe, which explain why suits and shirts is now playing a major rule in my life.

Looking back at the time, I’m now contemplating, what is the absolute minimum wardrobe components that a man must have when he just graduated from college and now entering the workforce.

Now, it’s ideal to have at least one or two options for each of the components, but experience wise, I don’t think many of us – including me – have that sort of luxury. So in this list , I limit to one each. Here are my takes

• A dark grey suit. This is acceptable for formal ceremonies as well as business occasions. The bottom line of good suits is a fit, so put an attention on the fit and sizing rather than the brand
• A black woven silk tie. Which will complement most shirts and most suit to any occasion, funeral included
• Two whites/or blue normal cuff shirt – cotton only no silk. Far more important that any other color, in case you need to conduct interview two days in a row. As soon as you landed the job, expand the shirts immediately !!!
• A black cap toe oxford. Never fail options, works for business as well as formals. In Indonesia, this is probably one of the most formal shoes you will ever need for the rest of your life.
• A long sleeves – cotton or silk batik, in any color that suit your profile. Never forget that we live in Indonesia, and batik is inseparable parts of our culture
• Black plain socks. Why black ? Oh well , gray will work as well (provided that your trouser is gray). But mostly suitable because your shoes is black (much about matching socks color will be discussed in a different post)
• Stainless steel wrist watch. No need to be expensive, even the Rp.300k Casio will do just fine. This helps accentuate the smart/executive image when you are being interviewed
• Black belt. Absolutely essential, choose with the simplest buckle design as possible. Avoid expensive branded belt, that overly exposed their logo in the buckle (example of this would be Gucci)
• White cotton/linen pocket square. Handy for accessories as well as hygienic purposes. Better than pocket size tissue pack.

There are some major optional that you can add, if you think the above list is already in your wardrobe:

• Odd Jacket of any kind materials, handy for clubbing, and more casual occasion that doesn’t command full suit.
• A brown loafer, which will definitely go hand in hand with any jeans that you have. Excellent for dress down Friday.
• Short sleeve Batik in cotton.

For girls who read this, you may think that this list is no brainer, but trust me, there are plenty of lost souls out there that needs to be saved So please add if I missed anything.